Nicholas Jennings

Who is the founder of Sharini Parfums?

Nicholas Jennings, artisan perfumer and founder of Sharini Parfums Naturels.

One of my favorite quotes:

"Our language is useless when it comes to describing the world of scents"

(Patrick Süskind, Perfume)

 

How did you discover a fascination for creating perfumes?

I was always interested in perfume and smell when I was a young boy, but not in perfumery.

I wanted to touch and smell as a means of discovering the world. Holding objects close to my nose opened me up to another world: smelling old books or furniture or freshly cut grass in late spring...

 

After studying and working in England, I traveled a lot in Asia and Africa for 2 years. It was during these olfactory journeys that I discovered firsthand the traditional techniques of extracting essential oils and floral waters.

 

I then had the chance to spend a summer on a French biodynamic farm in Provence. I harvested high altitude lavender, thyme and rosemary there, which were distilled in old copper stills over a fire.

The oils were of excellent quality even though the techniques had been unchanged for centuries.

 

This is where I started to move beyond the world of aromatherapy and started composing and creating using essential oils and flower tinctures.

 

I then studied modern techniques and the technical aspects of perfumery.

Modern perfumery however is dominated by the use of synthetic aromatic chemicals and I quickly realized that I wanted to bring my ethical and personal interest in natural oils back into the world of modern perfumery.

 

This is how in 2005 I launched my first certified 100% natural and organic perfumes.

 

How would you describe the fundamental science of perfume creation?

With a few exceptions, the actual production is relatively simple with a maceration stage of 5 to 8 months then twice filtered at zero degrees before bottling.

Most of the time is spent in mixing and developing the final composition which takes around 18 months.

 

And of course, keeping up to date with European cosmetics legislation!

 

What is the difference between a natural perfume and a synthetic?

 

The biggest difference is that natural perfumers do not use synthetic aromatic chemicals.

Natural aromatics have a vital force and diffuse their scents in a softer and more delicate way.

 

Have you ever sat next to someone on a train or bus and been overwhelmed by their scent?

It is the synthetic nitro-musks that are so often the basis of modern synthetic perfumery.

 

Natural perfumes are more intimate and do not mask the person wearing them. Natural perfumes have a bow on the body; their scent constantly evolves on the pwater.

 

Are there any flavors that are particularly difficult to achieve?

As all major brand perfumes are synthetic based, there is a greater choice of aromatic chemicals to create perfumes. This is not the case when using only natural ingredients.

 

Fresh, light, green natural scents are tricky because the deeper base notes that set a scent can easily overpower and overpower the lighter notes.

Some, like lily of the valley (thrush), simply cannot be extracted naturally, so nature sometimes likes to keep its own secrets!

 

What are your main influences?

There are plenty.

David Williams, a talented British natural perfumer,

Many Aftel, an American natural perfumer who really helped promote natural fragrances through the Guild of Natural Perfumers.

And so many others...

 

Where does the inspiration for Sharini fragrances come from?

Inspiration can come from anywhere and may not necessarily be related to fragrance, such as an energetic walk in the mountains or a lazy summer day on a beach.

Experimenting and creating fragrances, however, is a much longer process of trial and error, peppered with moments of creativity and excitement.

Meticulous documentation of all my experiences is recorded as scents can come alive after several months of formulation.

Woe to the perfumer who finds an old creation that smells divine but without a list of ingredients or notes - very frustrating.

 

What aspects do you enjoy most about your job?

I love the full cycle from harvest to bottling but the experimental stage of creation is full of surprise and ingenuity.

 

What is the attitude in France towards your company Sharini?

Very positive, I attend organic fairs in France and people are often surprised and intrigued by my British roots.

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Do you make blends for individuals?

Yes, in the St Guilhem le Désert workshop, I regularly bring clients to create their personalized perfume together in front of the perfumer's organ.

It's a crazy pleasure to discover the ancient techniques of perfumery.

 

What are your goals with Sharini?

Always using only the best natural ingredients available, ethically harvested and environmentally sustainable.

 

What does "Sharini" mean?

Sharini is a female Indian name and means “the land” in Sanskrit.

 

Sharini makes “living perfumery”, what does that mean?

I work using raw materials directly from nature and not from a laboratory.

Each plant offers a unique olfactory experience. And no plant-related smell will ever be quite the same.

All this is intimately linked to exposure, climate, soil, etc.

We are in the living world and each batch produced is therefore unique!

 

Why does Sharini produce in small quantities?

We cannot produce more than what nature gives us, so we flirt with rarity and exception.

 

I respect the crops and the rhythm of nature. I am a craftsman, nature lover and I want to offer high quality.

Therefore, I can only offer small productions and sometimes limited editions.